March 6, Part 2: Cap Haitien
Thursday, July 17th, 2008At last an island slowly comes into view, with turquoise waters around its edges and great mountains covered with greenery. Below them, as we get closer, I begin to make out palm trees and small, dilapidated shacks.
The airport comprises a few small buildings with ceiling fans and not much else. I watch the many dark men who mill around us speaking Creole that I do not understand. Pat, the missionary we’ll be staying with, meets us at the airport.
Once our things are loaded into Pat’s pickup, we all climb in for the drive to her home and inn on the coast. She skillfully navigates through potholes, honking tap-taps (local taxi trucks) packed to overflowing, speeding mopeds, clusters of schoolchildren in clean, brightly-colored uniforms, and women balancing seemingly impossible loads on their heads. We sit in silence, just trying to take it all in.
As we come alongside the ocean, I see a pig standing in the shallows. Just seconds later, a white UN vehicle passes on our other side full of armed, uniformed soldiers with blue helmets. I suddenly feel like I’m in a combat zone. I cannot tell if the broken concrete buildings are bombed-out or merely old and weathered. I know nothing yet of the corrupt government’s perpetual efforts to keep people believing that Haiti is such a very dangerous place so that they will get more money “for security.”

